2nd flat drawing-shorts

In my second flat drawing of the shorts, i've changed both of the slant pockets and the hip pockets.

Now the pockets have more unique shape than the originals.

The back pocket is a patch with flap and with buttons on it, which gives it more street look.

2nd Flat drawing-The jacket

My second flat drawing is influenced by Burberry and Superdry.

It is double breasted and I would like to change the fabric Cotton to Gabardine, which is tough, tightly fabric used to make suits, overcoats and wind breakers.

 I combined this with Superdry's classic style- ribbed cuffs and collar, which is made from ripstop fabric- the woven fabrics that using a special reinforcing technique that makes them resistant to tearing and ripping.

In this flat drawing I have removed the pockets as I think with the ribbed cuffs they are too much on a jacket. 

The Jacket

The Collar

Unpicking the Jacket

Firtsly I unpick the collar

Then the Lining

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shorts

45 keywords for garment

1——stand collar 
2——hanging loop
3——top collar 
4——small shoulder 
5——sleeve top/sleeve head/crown 
6——lapel point 
7——mock button hole 
8——armhole 
9——breast pocket
10——button hole 
11——top fly（left front）
12——front dart 
13——underarm dart 
14——top sleeve 
15——sleeve button 
16——sleeve opening 
17——hem 
18——front cut 
19——front edge 
20——under sleeve 
21——flap 
22——change pocket 
23——button 
24——under fly（right front） 
25——inside breast pocket 
26——fold line for lapel 
27——lapel 
28——gorge line 
29——lining center back pleat
30——back lining 
31——top collar 
 32——across back shoulder 
33——back armhole 
34——half back belt 
35——vent 
36——side seam 
37——center back seam
38——back1
39——armhole straight
40——chest 1/2 
41——bottom width
42——collar height at center
43——band collar height at center
44——collar heigh on top
45——neck circunference yoke

Unpicking the Shorts (1

Firstly, Im going to unpick the belt-loops.

There are 4 belt-loops

As the belt on the shorts is sewed up with the uppers side of the waistband, I'm going to deconstruct the belt first, and then the waistband.

The belt had joined together.

unpicking the buttonhole.

 And then the button. 

unpicking the waistband from inside.

after that, start to unpick the buttons and the labels.

[Terminology-with images]

Terminology-why should we bother

Well, clothing terminology comprises the names of individual garments and classes of garment, as well as the specialised vocabularies of the trades that have designed, manufactured, marketed and sold clothing over hundreds of years.

This [Terminology] section allow us to understand which words consumers and, more generally, the market, use. For a brand willing to be recognised for its ethical credentials, using the right words is essential to communicate efficiently to stakeholders.

[Terminology]-A-Z

Terminology

A to Z

Armhole

Auto lock zipper

Back rise

Bar tack

Beading

Belt loop

Bow-tie

Box-pleat

Buckle loop

Button distance

Button stand

Button-hole

Button-holding

Collar fall

Collar notch

Collar point

Collar base

Conceal zipper

Crotch point

Crotch

Cuff button

Cuff hem

Cuff opening

Cuff vent

Double cuff

Elbow patch

Elastic cuff

Epaulet

Extension of waistband

Eyelet buttonhole

Eyelet

Frills

Fringe

Front edge

Front facing

Front opening

Front rise

Front yoke

Fullness

Grommet

Hem

Hemming

Hooks

Hidden bar tack

Hidden placket

Imitation cuff

Overlap

Piping

Pipper

Pique

Placket

Pleat

Pocket bearer

Pocket facing

Pocket flap

Pocket mouth

Pocket opening

Press button

Rivet

Round bottom

Round corner cuff

Ruffles

Saddle width

Seam allowance

Serge

Shank

Shoulder dart

Shoulder point

Slant corner cuff

Slant cut bottom

Slanting front

Sleeve crown

Sleeve head

Sleeve opening

Sleeve placket

Sleeve slit

Slit

Smocking

Stay tape

Straighten buttonhole

Tipping

Top collar

Top sleeve

Top stitches

Top vent

Trimmings

Underarm seam

Under closure

Under sleeve

Under arm dart

Under arm gusset

Waistband

Waist tab

Welt buttonhole

Zipper

[Collar types]

Jabot

Decoration made up of one or two pieces of fine soft pleated fabric; it is attached at the base of the neck and spreads out over the chest.

Sailor collar

Collar that is square in back and has long lapels extending over the chest; it is fastened to a V-neck and, out of modesty, the plunging neckline is often concealed with a piece of fabric.

Bow collar

Collar made of a long strip of soft fabric sewn onto a round neck; it can be tied in front in various ways.

Shawl collar

Wide turned-down collar with long rounded lapels that partially cross in front.

Peter Pan collar

Flat collar of uniform width with rounded tips; it is sewn onto a fairly open neck.

Dog ear collar

Turned-down collar characterized by long, fairly wide points, which are rounded at the tips.

Tailored collar

Collar whose fold covers the back of the neck; its lapels form a V where they cross on the chest.

Shirt collar

Collar with rounded or tapered points that is sewn onto the neck and turned down along a fold line, which is higher in back than in front.

［Pocket types]

How many times we have seen a pocket but did we think about its technical details. A fashion designer and a pattern master have to keep in mind about different types of pockets as for different garments the requirement of pockets changes. It is important that pocket size, shape, and placement should complement the design of the garment. Pocket is a pouch that has a closed end is usually stitched on a garment or even inside the garment. Pocket can be both functional and decorative purpose. Pocket helps in holding and small article temporarily.



Pockets can be classified in three categories.

1. Outside of pockets
As the name suggest Pockets of any size or shapes that are stitched over the garments.  

There are 3 types of outside pockets, Patch pocket, Pouch pocket and Accordion pockets.

2. Inserted pocket 
This kind of pouch is stitched inside of the garment into a straight and stylized seam.                    

3. Welt pocket 
An inset pocket with the lower lip finished by an upstanding welt.

Pockets Styles

Pockets are of different styles and shapes, Some pockets are designed to be used for filling things inside, these types of pockets are referred to as functional pockets, others are made as decorative style, and some other pockets are hidden in view.

It doesn't matter what type of pocket that are on garments, what matters most is that some pockets on any apparel give the wearer either a professional or casual look.

Pockets can be designed using the same fabric as the garment or use a different color to give it a contrast look. Some pockets are with flaps, while others are top-stitched with no flap.

These are some of most common pockets you can find on some garments: patch pocket has many designs such as patch pocket with flap, patch pocket with self-flap and patch pocket with separate flap. There are also in-seam pocket, front hip pocket, kangaroo pocket, welt pocket also called slashed pocket with welt, bound slashed pocket, basic patch pocket, paper bag pocket. The lists of types of pockets goes on...

「Cuff types」

A cuff is an extra layer of fabric at the lower edge of the sleeve of a garment covering the arms.

Here are different kinds of cuffs I drew.

Roll up tab

The rolled up part works well on both soft and rigid woven fabrications. It is always a choice for the girls who loves shirts, shirt dresses, tunics and blouses, so loving rolled tab sleeves is a no-brainer. They can convey both a classic and a hip integrity depending on the rest of the ensemble. As always, it’s HOW you wear the item that counts, also they denote a casual vibe.

French cuff

They are twice as long and worn folded back on themselves. French cuffs were once considered to be more formal than button cuffs, although they are seeing a resurgence in the business environment, particularly in Europe. They also known as "James Bond cuff".

Single cuff

Single cuffs, the original linked cuff, are required for white tie and are the more traditional choice for black tie. Also, some traditionalists may wear this style with lounge suits as well.