Wednesday 27 March 2013

Unpicking the Shorts (1


Firstly, Im going to unpick the belt-loops.
There are 4 belt-loops
As the belt on the shorts is sewed up with the uppers side of the waistband, I'm going to deconstruct the belt first, and then the waistband.


The belt had joined together.


unpicking the buttonhole.




 And then the button. 




unpicking the waistband from inside.


after that, start to unpick the buttons and the labels.





[Terminology-with images]


Terminology-why should we bother

Well, clothing terminology comprises the names of individual garments and classes of garment, as well as the specialised vocabularies of the trades that have designed, manufactured, marketed and sold clothing over hundreds of years.


This [Terminology] section allow us to understand which words consumers and, more generally, the market, use. For a brand willing to be recognised for its ethical credentials, using the right words is essential to communicate efficiently to stakeholders.

[Terminology]-A-Z


Terminology
A to Z

Armhole
Auto lock zipper
Back rise
Bar tack
Beading
Belt loop
Bow-tie
Box-pleat
Buckle loop
Button distance
Button stand
Button-hole
Button-holding
Collar fall
Collar notch
Collar point
Collar base
Conceal zipper
Crotch point
Crotch
Cuff button
Cuff hem
Cuff opening
Cuff vent
Double cuff
Elbow patch
Elastic cuff
Epaulet
Extension of waistband
Eyelet buttonhole
Eyelet
Frills
Fringe
Front edge
Front facing
Front opening
Front rise
Front yoke
Fullness
Grommet
Hem
Hemming
Hooks
Hidden bar tack
Hidden placket
Imitation cuff
Overlap
Piping
Pipper
Pique
Placket
Pleat
Pocket bearer
Pocket facing
Pocket flap
Pocket mouth
Pocket opening
Press button

Rivet
Round bottom
Round corner cuff
Ruffles
Saddle width
Seam allowance
Serge
Shank
Shoulder dart
Shoulder point
Slant corner cuff
Slant cut bottom
Slanting front
Sleeve crown
Sleeve head
Sleeve opening
Sleeve placket
Sleeve slit
Slit
Smocking
Stay tape
Straighten buttonhole
Tipping
Top collar
Top sleeve
Top stitches
Top vent
Trimmings
Underarm seam
Under closure
Under sleeve
Under arm dart
Under arm gusset
Waistband
Waist tab
Welt buttonhole
Zipper

Tuesday 26 March 2013

[Collar types]


Jabot
Decoration made up of one or two pieces of fine soft pleated fabric; it is attached at the base of the neck and spreads out over the chest.

Sailor collar
Collar that is square in back and has long lapels extending over the chest; it is fastened to a V-neck and, out of modesty, the plunging neckline is often concealed with a piece of fabric.

Bow collar
Collar made of a long strip of soft fabric sewn onto a round neck; it can be tied in front in various ways.

Shawl collar
Wide turned-down collar with long rounded lapels that partially cross in front.

Peter Pan collar
Flat collar of uniform width with rounded tips; it is sewn onto a fairly open neck.

Dog ear collar
Turned-down collar characterized by long, fairly wide points, which are rounded at the tips.

Tailored collar
Collar whose fold covers the back of the neck; its lapels form a V where they cross on the chest.

Shirt collar
Collar with rounded or tapered points that is sewn onto the neck and turned down along a fold line, which is higher in back than in front.


Wednesday 13 March 2013

[Pocket types]

How many times we have seen a pocket but did we think about its technical details. A fashion designer and a pattern master have to keep in mind about different types of pockets as for different garments the requirement of pockets changes. It is important that pocket size, shape, and placement should complement the design of the garment. Pocket is a pouch that has a closed end is usually stitched on a garment or even inside the garment. Pocket can be both functional and decorative purpose. Pocket helps in holding and small article temporarily.



Pockets can be classified in three categories.

1. Outside of pockets
As the name suggest Pockets of any size or shapes that are stitched over the garments.  

There are 3 types of outside pockets, Patch pocket, Pouch pocket and Accordion pockets.

2. Inserted pocket 
This kind of pouch is stitched inside of the garment into a straight and stylized seam.                    

3. Welt pocket 
An inset pocket with the lower lip finished by an upstanding welt.



Pockets Styles





Pockets are of different styles and shapes, Some pockets are designed to be used for filling things inside, these types of pockets are referred to as functional pockets, others are made as decorative style, and some other pockets are hidden in view.
It doesn't matter what type of pocket that are on garments, what matters most is that some pockets on any apparel give the wearer either a professional or casual look.
Pockets can be designed using the same fabric as the garment or use a different color to give it a contrast look. Some pockets are with flaps, while others are top-stitched with no flap.
These are some of most common pockets you can find on some garments: patch pocket has many designs such as patch pocket with flap, patch pocket with self-flap and patch pocket with separate flap. There are also in-seam pocket, front hip pocket, kangaroo pocket, welt pocket also called slashed pocket with welt, bound slashed pocket, basic patch pocket, paper bag pocket. The lists of types of pockets goes on...


「Cuff types」

A cuff is an extra layer of fabric at the lower edge of the sleeve of a garment covering the arms.

Here are different kinds of cuffs I drew.




Roll up tab

The rolled up part works well on both soft and rigid woven fabrications. It is always a choice for the girls who loves shirts, shirt dresses, tunics and blouses, so loving rolled tab sleeves is a no-brainer. They can convey both a classic and a hip integrity depending on the rest of the ensemble. As always, it’s HOW you wear the item that counts, also they denote a casual vibe.

French cuff

They are twice as long and worn folded back on themselves. French cuffs were once considered to be more formal than button cuffs, although they are seeing a resurgence in the business environment, particularly in Europe. They also known as "James Bond cuff".

Single cuff

Single cuffs, the original linked cuff, are required for white tie and are the more traditional choice for black tie. Also, some traditionalists may wear this style with lounge suits as well.





[Fabric types]


These are some well-known fabrics that are frequently used in virtually all markets today. Although they have been grouped by the category they are often associated with, but they are no solid rules to a fabric’s usage. For some designers, for example, silk chiffon may be an exclusively eveningwear fabric, while others may incorporate it into their daywear.


DAY WEAR

Wood gabardine
Tightly woven fabric known for its durability and versatility. The use of 100 percent worsted wool gives a smooth appearance on one side and twill on the reverse. Traditionally used in menswear suiting, but now a mainstay across all categories.

Tropical wool
Lightweight worsted wool commonly used for suiting during transitional seasons.

Cotton poplin
Medium- to heavyweight fabric most frequently made of cotton or polyester blend. This sturdy fabric with noticeable ridges is used in casual sportswear for men and women, particularly for shirting.

Denim

Woven cotton twill fabric of medium weight, originally used for work wear, today it is generally used as bottoms and jackets for more casual garments.

Chambray
Lightweight woven fabric combining a coloured yarn with an undyed yarn in a plain weave to create a denim look. Used for casual sportswear for men and women.

Corduroy

Durable fabric with parallel lengthwise cords or ridges called “wales”. The thickness of the wales determines the fabric’s use; thinner wales give a softer feel ideal for shirts; thicker wales for bottoms and jackets.

Broadcloth
Densely woven fabric that is extremely sturdy and very soft. Original wool, it is now made in cotton and is perfect for shirts and blouses.

Voile

Lightweight sheer fabric with a gauze-like quality made of silk, rayon or cotton. Often used in lingerie, baby clothes, blouses and skirts.

Lawn
Plain weave, semitransparent fabric originally made from combed cotton, resulting in a silky hand feels. Crisper than voile but less crisp than organdy, it is suitable for blouses.

Organdy


Typically 100 percent cotton, a crisp, transparent woven fabric often used in shirts and blouses.

Batiste
Delicate, fine cotton with a graceful drape perfect for baby clothing, lingerie and nightdresses.

Cotton sateen

Medium weight fabric, made from mercerized cotton, with a similar sheen to satin. Its high thread count makes it soft to the touch and perfect for casual separates.

Cavalry twill
Strong cotton, wool or worsted fabric constructed in double twill, which results in diagonal, subtle ridges that give it a distinct look, traditionally used for trousers and jackets.

Gabardine
Tightly woven, durable twill with a distinct diagonal ridge running throughout, commonly used in trousers and rainwear for men and women.

Swiss dot
Sheer cotton fabric often made of lawn or batiste with a small dot pattern either woven into the fabric or flocked onto the surface. Typically used in shirting, dresses and children’s clothing.

Linen

Summer weight fabric with natural slubs running throughout. Know n for its tendency to crease, which is part of its charm, it is available in various weights for separate.

Canvas, duck, sailcloth

Very stiff, durable, plain fabrics, suitable for outerwear. Although dyeable, theses traditionally come in unbleached white.

Chino

Twill fabric made from mercerised cotton and typically khaki in colour. Originally used for army uniforms but has become a staple today for men’s and women’s trousers.
Chintz
Boldly patterned fabric of flowers, abstract geometrics or figures, traditionally made from 100 percent cotton. Finishes vary from coarse and rough to smooth and glossy. Originally used in upholstery; used today in separate.

Waffle weave
Woven with a recesses square pattern reminiscent of waffles- hence the name. often 100 percent cotton but may be offered in blends; used in casual and athletic clothing.

Challis
Lightweight, plain- weave fabric, made from cotton or wool, usually with a printed design. Its soft hand feel makes it perfect for pajamas, dresses and blouses.


TAILORED

Camel hair
May be made from 100 percent camel hair or camel hair blended with wool. Colours aren’t usually dyed but remain neutral. This classic fabric has a fine, brushed, hairlike finish traditionally used in coating or suits.

Wool felt

Nonwoven fabric created when the sheep’s wool or fibre is subjected to heat, moisture or agitation, creating a very thick, dense fabric used in outerwear, coats and jackets.

Zibeline
Soft, airy fabric with a long, glossy pile from a mixture of mohair-type fibres with twill weave. Long-defined nap lies in one direction, adding structure and body, and making it ideal for suits and coats requiring extensive tailoring.

Sharkskin
Smooth, unique weave using a blend of rayon or acetate along with wool in white with coloured fibres to create a basket-weave effect. Its two-toned woven appearance makes it popular for men and women’s suits.


EVENING/BRIDAL

Organza
Plain weave, sheer fabric, often silk or a synthetic blend, used to create volume in bridal dresses.

Chiffon
Sheer, delicate woven fabric, often 100 percent silk but available in synthetic, used for its fluidity and “airy” quality. Suitable for dresses and blouses.

Georgette

More opaque than chiffon, often made from silk but available in synthetics. Has a crinkly, crepe-like texture and is dry to the touch. Drapes well and are ideal for blouses and dresses.

Charmeuse
Luxury fabric with a glossy satin finish, extremely lightweight. Often made in 100 percent silk, its fluidity creates a soft drape suitable for dresses and separates.

Crepe de Chine
Light, plain-woven fabric, typically 100 percent silk with a slightly crepe character. Used in dresses and blouses. 

Crepe-back satin
Lightly textured, two-faced fabric with crepe on one side and a high-lustre satin on the other. Available in silk and synthetics, the soft drape is suitable for dresses and blouses.

Velvet

Soft, plush fabric made of silk, cotton or synthetic blends. The threads stick up, forming a soft-to-the-touch pile traditionally an evening fabric, but can cross over into daywear.