Wednesday 13 March 2013

[Fabric types]


These are some well-known fabrics that are frequently used in virtually all markets today. Although they have been grouped by the category they are often associated with, but they are no solid rules to a fabric’s usage. For some designers, for example, silk chiffon may be an exclusively eveningwear fabric, while others may incorporate it into their daywear.


DAY WEAR

Wood gabardine
Tightly woven fabric known for its durability and versatility. The use of 100 percent worsted wool gives a smooth appearance on one side and twill on the reverse. Traditionally used in menswear suiting, but now a mainstay across all categories.

Tropical wool
Lightweight worsted wool commonly used for suiting during transitional seasons.

Cotton poplin
Medium- to heavyweight fabric most frequently made of cotton or polyester blend. This sturdy fabric with noticeable ridges is used in casual sportswear for men and women, particularly for shirting.

Denim

Woven cotton twill fabric of medium weight, originally used for work wear, today it is generally used as bottoms and jackets for more casual garments.

Chambray
Lightweight woven fabric combining a coloured yarn with an undyed yarn in a plain weave to create a denim look. Used for casual sportswear for men and women.

Corduroy

Durable fabric with parallel lengthwise cords or ridges called “wales”. The thickness of the wales determines the fabric’s use; thinner wales give a softer feel ideal for shirts; thicker wales for bottoms and jackets.

Broadcloth
Densely woven fabric that is extremely sturdy and very soft. Original wool, it is now made in cotton and is perfect for shirts and blouses.

Voile

Lightweight sheer fabric with a gauze-like quality made of silk, rayon or cotton. Often used in lingerie, baby clothes, blouses and skirts.

Lawn
Plain weave, semitransparent fabric originally made from combed cotton, resulting in a silky hand feels. Crisper than voile but less crisp than organdy, it is suitable for blouses.

Organdy


Typically 100 percent cotton, a crisp, transparent woven fabric often used in shirts and blouses.

Batiste
Delicate, fine cotton with a graceful drape perfect for baby clothing, lingerie and nightdresses.

Cotton sateen

Medium weight fabric, made from mercerized cotton, with a similar sheen to satin. Its high thread count makes it soft to the touch and perfect for casual separates.

Cavalry twill
Strong cotton, wool or worsted fabric constructed in double twill, which results in diagonal, subtle ridges that give it a distinct look, traditionally used for trousers and jackets.

Gabardine
Tightly woven, durable twill with a distinct diagonal ridge running throughout, commonly used in trousers and rainwear for men and women.

Swiss dot
Sheer cotton fabric often made of lawn or batiste with a small dot pattern either woven into the fabric or flocked onto the surface. Typically used in shirting, dresses and children’s clothing.

Linen

Summer weight fabric with natural slubs running throughout. Know n for its tendency to crease, which is part of its charm, it is available in various weights for separate.

Canvas, duck, sailcloth

Very stiff, durable, plain fabrics, suitable for outerwear. Although dyeable, theses traditionally come in unbleached white.

Chino

Twill fabric made from mercerised cotton and typically khaki in colour. Originally used for army uniforms but has become a staple today for men’s and women’s trousers.
Chintz
Boldly patterned fabric of flowers, abstract geometrics or figures, traditionally made from 100 percent cotton. Finishes vary from coarse and rough to smooth and glossy. Originally used in upholstery; used today in separate.

Waffle weave
Woven with a recesses square pattern reminiscent of waffles- hence the name. often 100 percent cotton but may be offered in blends; used in casual and athletic clothing.

Challis
Lightweight, plain- weave fabric, made from cotton or wool, usually with a printed design. Its soft hand feel makes it perfect for pajamas, dresses and blouses.


TAILORED

Camel hair
May be made from 100 percent camel hair or camel hair blended with wool. Colours aren’t usually dyed but remain neutral. This classic fabric has a fine, brushed, hairlike finish traditionally used in coating or suits.

Wool felt

Nonwoven fabric created when the sheep’s wool or fibre is subjected to heat, moisture or agitation, creating a very thick, dense fabric used in outerwear, coats and jackets.

Zibeline
Soft, airy fabric with a long, glossy pile from a mixture of mohair-type fibres with twill weave. Long-defined nap lies in one direction, adding structure and body, and making it ideal for suits and coats requiring extensive tailoring.

Sharkskin
Smooth, unique weave using a blend of rayon or acetate along with wool in white with coloured fibres to create a basket-weave effect. Its two-toned woven appearance makes it popular for men and women’s suits.


EVENING/BRIDAL

Organza
Plain weave, sheer fabric, often silk or a synthetic blend, used to create volume in bridal dresses.

Chiffon
Sheer, delicate woven fabric, often 100 percent silk but available in synthetic, used for its fluidity and “airy” quality. Suitable for dresses and blouses.

Georgette

More opaque than chiffon, often made from silk but available in synthetics. Has a crinkly, crepe-like texture and is dry to the touch. Drapes well and are ideal for blouses and dresses.

Charmeuse
Luxury fabric with a glossy satin finish, extremely lightweight. Often made in 100 percent silk, its fluidity creates a soft drape suitable for dresses and separates.

Crepe de Chine
Light, plain-woven fabric, typically 100 percent silk with a slightly crepe character. Used in dresses and blouses. 

Crepe-back satin
Lightly textured, two-faced fabric with crepe on one side and a high-lustre satin on the other. Available in silk and synthetics, the soft drape is suitable for dresses and blouses.

Velvet

Soft, plush fabric made of silk, cotton or synthetic blends. The threads stick up, forming a soft-to-the-touch pile traditionally an evening fabric, but can cross over into daywear.

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